8 Must-See Places in Southern Illinois

What do you think of when you hear the word “Illinois”? Flat, boring farmland? Horrible traffic? That’s what I thought of at first, but then I moved to Southern Illinois: a land far different from the rest of the long state. Home to the ‎265,616 acre Shawnee National Forest, Southern Illinois boasts towering rock formations, many waterfalls, magical canyons, and endless hiking opportunities. While working toward my Master’s degree at Southern Illinois University in Carbondale, I relieved stress by getting outside. Here is my personal list of the best places to hike in the Shawnee National Forest.

1. Garden of the Gods

Garden of the Gods is a remarkable place in Herod, Illinois, featuring giant sandstone formations that make you feel like you’re in the mountains. On the 1/4-mile Observation Trail, you can climb all over the unusually shaped rocks and gaze out to the surrounding miles of wilderness.

If you want to do more hiking, drive back down to the backpackers’ parking lot and hike the 1.6 mile Indian Point Trail. This trail leads you around the forest floor and hugs the steep walls of even more rock formations. Many of these cliff bottoms have secret crevices and caves that beckon you to explore.

2. The Little Grand Canyon

The Little Grand Canyon is one of the more technical hikes in the area, but it’s also one of the most scenic. This 3-mile loop trail is located in Murphysboro, Illinois. The trail first takes you along the rim of the canyon before diving down into its depths. The trail disappears as you descend the canyon, replaced by a slick creek bed with several little waterfalls. It is best to take your time getting down into the canyon and to be aware of weather conditions – rain will make this journey extremely slippery.

Once you have made it all the way to the bottom, the trail takes you on a beautiful trip through the quiet forest. Eventually, you will come to another creek bed (a different one from before). Here you will ascend the canyon. Again, go slow, because it will be slippery, and you should also savor your time in this magical mossy waterfall canyon.

3. Ferne Clyffe State Park

If you are a waterfall lover, be sure to make a trip to Ferne Clyffe State Park in Goreville, Illinois. Many people don’t realize that the state park has multiple sections. Bork Falls, an impressive and photogenic waterfall, is not in the main part of the park. It’s located on Regent Lane, which is off of the Goreville Road exit on I-57. Completely unmarked, this waterfall is a local secret. When I was first looking up directions for Bork Falls, several websites warned me that I had to drive through the creek at the brink of the falls in order to access it. However, this is not the case if you are coming from Regent Lane. You can easily park on the side of the road before you get to the creek.

The main part of the park is well marked by a big sign. Three of the best trails to hike here are the Big Rocky Hollow Trail, which features a large waterfall, the Rebman trail, which leads to small, delicate waterfalls, and Hawk’s Cave Trail, which takes you through a massive sandstone cave. There are 15 other trails at Ferne Clyffe that I still haven’t tried. If you have others to recommend, let me know in the comments!

4. Pomona Natural Bridge

The neighboring towns of Pomona and Alto Pass, Illinois are quaint country villages with winding backroads and unique local gems to visit, such as the Root Beer Saloon and the Bald Knob Cross. The must-see natural feature in the area is the Pomona Natural Bridge. This sandstone formation, naturally carved out by water, measures about 90 feet long and 8 feet wide. It lies in an ethereal forest, complete with a small waterfall. The hike is short and easy, and the bridge is completely safe to walk right across.

5. Giant City State Park

Giant City State Park, located in Makanda, Illinois, deserves thorough exploration. It’s only 20 minutes from Carbondale, making it a lovely study break for SIU students. On your way there, be sure to stop for coffee at the iconic Makanda boardwalk.

As you drive through the beautiful park, you’ll notice countless places to pull off and have a picnic or take a hike. There are lots of great trails that aren’t even labeled on the park map, meaning you can return to this park many times and always experience something new. Three of the best main trails in the park are the Giant City Trail, which winds through skyscraper-like rock formations, the Trillium Trail, which follows a huge cliff and is covered in wildflowers, and the Devil’s Standtable Trail, which features a precarious tower of rock.

6. Jackson Falls

Jackson Falls is tucked deep within the Shawnee National Forest and is an exciting place to hike. A short trail from the parking lot will take you to the brink of the falls, but the best viewing point is at the bottom of the canyon. To get there, you need to get on the other side of the creek. Depending on water levels, the easiest way to do that might be to continue driving up the road beyond the parking area and then driving across the creek. Once you are on the other side of the creek, it is pretty easy to find the trail. It will take you across a bridge above a different waterfall before coming to a crevice in the rocks that you are able to climb down relatively easily.

Jackson Falls is a lovely plunge-type waterfall, cascading down into a deep turquoise pool.

7. Bell Smith Springs

Bell Smith Springs, near Jackson Falls, is a peaceful, magical area with huge sandstone formations and crystal-clear turquoise pools. After a rainfall, there might be waterfalls cascading over the cliffs. It’s a little slice of paradise, and certainly doesn’t feel like you’re in the Midwest!

8. Rim Rock

Rim Rock is a wonderful trail system very near Garden of the Gods. The trail takes you along the rim of a steep canyon. A narrow staircase takes you down into a narrow natural hallway between the giant rock slabs. This “hallway” is delightful to walk, as you have to take multiple turns and descend more staircases. Soon you will find yourself down in the canyon, where you can explore caves, streams, and hike over to the Pounds Hollow Beach.

Check out some of my other Southern Illinois adventures!